National politics may be byzantine and frustrating; city traffic may be atrocious and yes, there is a fair dollop of crime, but after six months, I can safely say we are loving Nairobi.
Just a few of our favourite things:
1. Where else can you take the children to see their own sponsored elephant after school? We bounce along a rutted road to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust as the sun sprints lower; red dust rises as the baby elephants trot from the bush ahead of their green-coated keepers; you can stroke the baby rhino in the red coat. Beats going for a muffin at Starbucks in Belsize Park any day.
2. The drumming of the rain on the roof when you wake in the middle of the night. Maybe it's because I'm Irish, but I find it soothing, especially if I know we've put saucepans under the ever-evolving leaks!
3. Watching our daughter, who used to be terrified of putting her head under water, now swimming almost exclusively underwater, sometimes without goggles, and mostly without (apparently) breathing. (This is accompanied by maternal daydreams about what I will wear when I am standing next to Michael Phelps' mum at the Swimming Hall of Fame ceremony in a few years).
4. Driving with the girls along Peponi Road, looking out for horses, cows, spooky trees.
5. Hanging out at the Jolly Roger on a Sunday afternoon, watching the girls going mad on one of the six or seven bouncy castles or sitting uncharacteristically still for the dreams-come-true face painters (and also, it has to be said, the naughty thrill of wondering if the electricity will be cut while someone is on the rather high inflatable water slide....)
6. Being able to get out of Nairobi in just over an hour, speeding along the good road to Naivasha, climbing until we get that first always-eye-popping glimpse of the Rift Valley, counting the donkeys and shouting when we see the first warthog or zebra on the side of the road.
7. Waking up with the most amazing dawn chorus of birds -- I was convinced one bird outside our window was a bloke the other day, the tune was so complicated. I didn't worry too much though. I figured burglars or general no-gooders would probably not be whistling in the middle of their nefarious deeds.
8. Sitting with a cool Tusker watching the girls dig sandcastles, make sand cakes and scream like dervishes at Peppers on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
9. Driving to school with the girls shouting "Asante Sana" (which I think my youngest believes refers in some way to Santa Claus) at the askari; or "Go away Matatus"; or "Mummy, bambulahead" (yes, they have been to too many puppet shows!).
10. The unbelievable thrill of thinking a monkey might live in the trees around our house. No evidence or sightings yet, but the potential is enough to brighten the dullest day.
11. My own morning pick-me-ups: Gado's cartoons in the Daily Nation and the same newspaper's stars. Uncannily accurate and no boring stuff about the need to manage your finances.
Check out Rafiki Kenya's blog for a great comprehensive list of places to eat and play in Nairobi.
Just a few of our favourite things:
1. Where else can you take the children to see their own sponsored elephant after school? We bounce along a rutted road to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust as the sun sprints lower; red dust rises as the baby elephants trot from the bush ahead of their green-coated keepers; you can stroke the baby rhino in the red coat. Beats going for a muffin at Starbucks in Belsize Park any day.
2. The drumming of the rain on the roof when you wake in the middle of the night. Maybe it's because I'm Irish, but I find it soothing, especially if I know we've put saucepans under the ever-evolving leaks!
3. Watching our daughter, who used to be terrified of putting her head under water, now swimming almost exclusively underwater, sometimes without goggles, and mostly without (apparently) breathing. (This is accompanied by maternal daydreams about what I will wear when I am standing next to Michael Phelps' mum at the Swimming Hall of Fame ceremony in a few years).
4. Driving with the girls along Peponi Road, looking out for horses, cows, spooky trees.
5. Hanging out at the Jolly Roger on a Sunday afternoon, watching the girls going mad on one of the six or seven bouncy castles or sitting uncharacteristically still for the dreams-come-true face painters (and also, it has to be said, the naughty thrill of wondering if the electricity will be cut while someone is on the rather high inflatable water slide....)
6. Being able to get out of Nairobi in just over an hour, speeding along the good road to Naivasha, climbing until we get that first always-eye-popping glimpse of the Rift Valley, counting the donkeys and shouting when we see the first warthog or zebra on the side of the road.
7. Waking up with the most amazing dawn chorus of birds -- I was convinced one bird outside our window was a bloke the other day, the tune was so complicated. I didn't worry too much though. I figured burglars or general no-gooders would probably not be whistling in the middle of their nefarious deeds.
8. Sitting with a cool Tusker watching the girls dig sandcastles, make sand cakes and scream like dervishes at Peppers on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
9. Driving to school with the girls shouting "Asante Sana" (which I think my youngest believes refers in some way to Santa Claus) at the askari; or "Go away Matatus"; or "Mummy, bambulahead" (yes, they have been to too many puppet shows!).
10. The unbelievable thrill of thinking a monkey might live in the trees around our house. No evidence or sightings yet, but the potential is enough to brighten the dullest day.
11. My own morning pick-me-ups: Gado's cartoons in the Daily Nation and the same newspaper's stars. Uncannily accurate and no boring stuff about the need to manage your finances.
Check out Rafiki Kenya's blog for a great comprehensive list of places to eat and play in Nairobi.
4 comments:
I see you've been sprinkled with that Nairobi magic! So unforgettable and endearing.
yes. We're not blind to the problems, and I realise there are many Nairobis and that we are very very lucky to enjoy a good life in a nice part but this is definitely one of the best and most interesting places I've lived. Paris was nice too...but in a different way!
YAY YAY!!! Am so glad that you are loving it. And I like that you're sprinkling this blog with real life stuff along with your rational and cognizant take on national politics. We miss you. xx
Thanks for the nice post and the link to mine. It is so encouraging to see many positive articles coming up lately! I hope more people will join the trend.
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